It happens in Milford, Conn., and in Madrid, and tonight, it will happen in Jane Rothrock's Glen Allen kitchen, as she opens a bottle of wine and hooks up a vintage nut grinder to her granite island.

Dough: In a large bowl, mix flour, sugar and salt. Cut margarine into mixture until completely incorporated. Add egg yolks, evaporated milk, fermented yeast, lemon juice and vanilla. Stir with spoon.